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To place the chassis in the service position, remove the
speaker assembly box (see 2-2.) and insert the main bracket
firmly into the T-slot located on the left corner of the beznet
as indicated (see inset). To gain access to the underside of
the boards follow the instructions on page 20. [Removal
and Replacement of the main bracket bottom plates].

To remove the D2 board remove the two screws circled,
release the clips circled and ease the board gently away from
the support bracket.

To remove the D1 board first remove the D2 bracket by
removing the two screws (one on each side of the bracket)
and releasing the four clips (two on each side of the bracket).
The D1 board can then be removed using the same method as
the G board.

To remove the G Board release the clips circled and ease the
board gently away from the support bracket.

Ensure the RF lead is dressed as shown circled above to avoid
obstructing the rear cover.

To avoid damage to the ground interconnecting leads from the
sharp edges of the heatsink they must be dressed as shown
above between the rear of the heatsink and the tuner.

The sheathed end of the ground connecting lead must be
plugged into the F3 board to avoid the possibility of the AC
mains power touching ground.

Ensure that wires do not touch heatsinks and high temperature
hotspots. All wires must be kept at a minimum distance of
20mm away from the EHT lead

1.

To prevent damaging the surface of the anode-cap do not use
sharp materials.

2.

Do not apply too great a pressure on the rubber, as this may cause
damage to the anode connector.

3.

A metal fitting called a shatter hook terminal is fitted inside the
rubber cap.

4.

Do not turn the rubber foot over excessively, this may cause
damage if the shatter hook sticks out.

High voltage remains in the CRT even
after the power is disconnected. To
avoid electric shock, discharge CRT
before attempting to remove the anode
cap. Short between anode and CRT
coated earth ground strap.

Coated Earth
Ground Strap

  1. Remove Speaker Box assembly.
  2. Discharge the anode of the CRT and remove the anode cap.
  3. Unplug all interconnecting leads from the Deflection yoke, neck

assy, degaussing coils and CRT grounding strap.

  4. Remove the C1 Board from the CRT.
  5. Remove the chassis assembly.
  6. Loosen the Neck assembly fixing screw and remove.
  7. Loosen the Deflection yoke fixing screw and remove.
  8. Place the set with the CRT face down on a cushion and remove

the Degaussing Coil holders.

  9. Remove the Degaussing Coils.
10. Remove the CRT grounding strap and spring tensioners.
11. Unscrew the four CRT fixing screws [ located on each CRT

corner ] and remove the CRT.
[Take care not to handle the CRT by the neck.]

a

Turn up one side of the rubber cap in
the direction indicated by the arrow  a

1

2    Using a thumb pull up the rubber cap
      firmly in the direction indicated by the
      arrow  b

3    When one side of the rubber cap is
      separated from the anode button, the
      anode-cap can be removed by turning
      up the rubber cap and pulling it up in
      the direction of the arrow   c

b

b

c

In the event of servicing being required to the solder side of the A, D1  or G printed wiring
boards, the bottom plates fitted to the main chassis bracket require to be removed.
This is performed by cutting the gates with a sharp wire cutter at the locations indicated by the
arrows.

Note : There are 2 plates fitted to the main bracket and secured by 3 gates.

Only remove the necessary plate to gain access to the printed wiring board.

Because the plates differ in size it is important that the correct plates are refitted in their original
location.

Please note that the plates need to be rotated 180 degrees from their cut position to allow the
tabs to be fitted into their catch positions.

Tab

Catch