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To remove the G Board release the clips circled and ease the
board gently away from the support bracket.

Position the chassis as indicated to access the solder side.
To gain access to the underside of the boards follow the
instructions on page 16. [Removal and Replacement of the
main bracket bottom plates ].

To remove the D2 board remove the two screws circled,
release the clips circled and ease the board gently away from
the support bracket.

To remove the D board first remove the D2 bracket by
removing the two screws (one on each side of the bracket)
and releasing the four clips (two on each side of the bracket).
The D board can then be removed using the same method as
the G board.

If the M2 Board needs to be removed for testing when the
chassis is placed in its service position, it would be necessary
to use an extender board and extension cable as indicated
above.
The Extender board and extension cable are available as a
service part by ordering the part number as indicated.

Remove the two screws fixing the user control module to the
side of the set. The control module can then be removed by
sliding it towards the rear of the set allowing access to the H2
Board.

To remove the M2 Board gently release the two clips with a
screwdriver and remove the board from its socket vertically.

To remove the H2 Board release the two clips circled and ease
the board gently away from the support bracket.

2

Extender Board Assembly A-1642-293-A

a

Turn up one side of the rubber cap in
the direction indicated by the arrow  a

1

2    Using a thumb pull up the rubber cap
      firmly in the direction indicated by the
      arrow  b

3    When one side of the rubber cap is
      separated from the anode button, the
      anode-cap can be removed by turning
      up the rubber cap and pulling it up in
      the direction of the arrow   c

b

b

c

1.

To prevent damaging the surface of the anode-cap do not use
sharp materials.

2.

Do not apply too great a pressure on the rubber, as this may cause
damage to the anode connector.

3.

A metal fitting called a shatter hook terminal is fitted inside the
rubber cap.

4.

Do not turn the rubber foot over excessively, this may cause
damage if the shatter hook sticks out.

High voltage remains in the CRT even
after the power is disconnected. To
avoid electric shock, discharge CRT
before attempting to remove the anode
cap. Short between anode and CRT
coated earth ground strap.

Coated Earth
Ground Strap

1.

Discharge the anode of the CRT and remove the anode cap.

2.

Unplug all interconnecting leads from the Deflection yoke, neck
assy, degaussing coils and CRT grounding strap.

3.

Remove the C Board from the CRT.

4.

Remove the chassis assembly.

5.

Loosen the Neck assembly fixing screw and remove.

6.

Loosen the Deflection yoke fixing screw and remove.

7.

Place the set with the CRT face down on a cushion and remove
the Degaussing Coil holders.

8.

Remove the Degaussing Coils.

9.

Remove the CRT grounding strap and spring tentioners.

10. Unscrew the four CRT fixing screws [ located on each CRT

corner ] and remove the CRT.
[Take care not to handle the CRT by the neck.]

In the event of servicing being required to the solder side of the D Board printed wiring board,
the bottom plates fitted to the main chassis bracket require to be removed.
This is performed by cutting the gates with a sharp wire cutter at the locations indicated by the
arrows.

Note : There are 3 plates fitted to the main bracket and secured by3 gates.

Only remove the necessary plate to gain access to the printed wiring board.

Because the plates differ in size it is important that the correct plates are refitted in their original
location.

Please note that the plates need to be rotated 180 degrees from their cut position to allow the
tabs to be fitted into their catch positions.

Tab

Catch