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Before completely removing the rear cover disconnect the
speaker connector which is located on the inside of the set.

To remove lift the main bracket rear slightly and slide the
chassis away from the beznet. Ensure that the interconnecting
leads are released from their purse locks to prevent damage
being caused.

When refitting the chassis ensure that the main bracket is
located in the beznet guide slots before sliding the chassis
forwards. Refit the inter-connecting leads in their respective
purse locks.

Remove the rear cover fixing screws indicated and pull the
rear cover backwards away from the set.

To remove the D2 board remove the two screws circled,
release the clips circled and ease the board gently away from
the support bracket.

To remove the D board first remove the D2 bracket by
removing the two screws (one on each side of the bracket)
and releasing the four clips (two on each side of the bracket).
The D board can then be removed using the same method as
the G board.

To remove the G Board release the clips circled and ease the
board gently away from the support bracket.

To place the chassis in the service position, insert the main
bracket firmly into the T-slot located on the left corner of the
beznet as indicated (see inset). To gain access to the underside
of the boards follow the instructions on page 17. [Removal
and Replacement of the main bracket bottom plates].

Ensure that wires do not touch heatsinks and high temperature
hotspots. All wires must be kept at a minimum distance of
20mm away from the EHT lead

To remove the M2 Board gently release the two clips with a
screwdriver and remove the board from its socket vertically.

If the M2 Board needs to be removed for testing when the
chassis is placed in its service position, it would be necessary
to use an extender board and extension cable as indicated
above.
The Extender board and extension cable are available as a
service part by ordering the part number as indicated.

1.

To prevent damaging the surface of the anode-cap do not use
sharp materials.

2.

Do not apply too great a pressure on the rubber, as this may cause
damage to the anode connector.

3.

A metal fitting called a shatter hook terminal is fitted inside the
rubber cap.

4.

Do not turn the rubber foot over excessively, this may cause
damage if the shatter hook sticks out.

High voltage remains in the CRT even
after the power is disconnected. To
avoid electric shock, discharge CRT
before attempting to remove the anode
cap. Short between anode and CRT
coated earth ground strap.

Coated Earth
Ground Strap

  1. Discharge the anode of the CRT and remove the anode cap.
  2. Unplug all interconnecting leads from the Deflection yoke, neck

assy, degaussing coils and CRT grounding strap.

  3. Remove the C Board from the CRT.
  4. Remove the chassis assembly.
  5. Loosen the Neck assembly fixing screw and remove.
  6. Loosen the Deflection yoke fixing screw and remove.
  7. Place the set with the CRT face down on a cushion and remove

the Degaussing Coil holders.

  8. Remove the Degaussing Coils.
  9. Remove the CRT grounding strap and spring tensioners.
 10. Unscrew the four CRT fixing screws [ located on each CRT

corner ] and remove the CRT.
[Take care not to handle the CRT by the neck.]

a

Turn up one side of the rubber cap in
the direction indicated by the arrow  a

1

2    Using a thumb pull up the rubber cap
      firmly in the direction indicated by the
      arrow  b

3    When one side of the rubber cap is
      separated from the anode button, the
      anode-cap can be removed by turning
      up the rubber cap and pulling it up in
      the direction of the arrow   c

b

b

c