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Remove the rear cover fixing screws indicated and withdraw
the rear cover from the beznet.

To remove lift the main bracket rear slightly and slide the
chassis away from the beznet. Ensure that the interconnecting
leads are released from their purse locks to prevent damage
being caused.

When refitting the chassis ensure that the main
bracket is located in the beznet guide slots before
sliding the chassis forwards. Refit the
interconnecting leads in their respective purse locks.

Remove the two screws fixing the user control module to the
side of the set. The control module can then be removed by
sliding it towards the rear of the set allowing access to the H2
Board.

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Position the chassis as indicated to access the solder side
of the PWB’s. To gain access to the A Board follow the
instructions on page 16. [Removal and Replacement of the
main bracket bottom plates ].

Remove the shield case by pulling vertically until it is clear of the N Board. Release the N board socket retaining clips, circled, by
gently prising them with a screwdriver and carefully lift the N Board vertically.

Release the clip circled and pull the F6 bracket towards the
rear of the set. The bracket can then be removed to allow
access to the boards.
To remove the F6 and H8 Boards release the clips circled and
ease the boards gently away from the support bracket.

a

Turn up one side of the rubber cap in
the direction indicated by the arrow  a

1

2    Using a thumb pull up the rubber cap
      firmly in the direction indicated by the
      arrow  b

3    When one side of the rubber cap is
      separated from the anode button, the
      anode-cap can be removed by turning
      up the rubber cap and pulling it up in
      the direction of the arrow   c

b

b

c

1 .

To prevent damaging the surface of the anode-cap do not use
sharp materials.

2.

Do not apply too great a pressure on the rubber, as this may cause
damage to the anode connector.

3.

A metal fitting called a shatter hook terminal is fitted inside the
rubber cap.

4.

Do not turn the rubber foot over excessively, this may cause
damage if the shatter hook sticks out.

High voltage remains in the CRT even
after the power is disconnected. To
avoid electric shock, discharge CRT
before attempting to remove the anode
cap. Short between anode and CRT
coated earth ground strap.

Coated Earth
Ground Strap

1.

Discharge the anode of the CRT and remove the anode cap.

2.

Unplug all interconnecting leads from the Deflection yoke, neck
assy, degaussing coils and CRT grounding strap.

3.

Remove the C Board from the CRT.

4.

Remove the chassis assembly.

5.

Loosen the Neck assembly fixing screw and remove.

6.

Loosen the Deflection yoke fixing screw and remove.

7.

Place the set with the CRT face down on a cushion and remove
the Degaussing Coil holders.

8.

Remove the Degaussing Coils.

9.

Remove the CRT grounding strap and spring tentioners.

10. Unscrew the four CRT fixing screws [ located on each CRT

corner ] and remove the CRT.
[Take care not to handle the CRT by the neck.]

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3

4

6

8

10

5

9

2

7

In the event of servicing being required to the solder side of the D Board printed wiring board, the

bottom plates fitted to the main chassis bracket require to be removed.

This is performed by cutting the gates with a sharp wire cutter at the locations indicated by the

arrows.

There are 3 plates fitted to the main bracket and secured by3 gates.

Only remove the necessary plate to gain access to the printed wiring board.

Because the plates differ in size it is important that the correct plates are refitted in their original

location.

Please note that the plates need to be rotated 180 degrees from their cut position to allow the tabs to

be fitted into their catch positions.

Ta

b

Catch